Friday, January 9, 2009

I do not want to be a polar bear.

"Where can I have here a polar bear penis buy?" Some questions have yet Christoph Ebert then perplexed when he was a few months, tourists on the Greenland ice rinks led. For the geography student, it was the coolest summer job in the world.
  In the background vary sapphire blue icebergs in the waves. Gulls scream and fight to the remains of a freshly gutted fish. Since turning the inconspicuous Asiate in knallbunten raincape to me: "Can i buy the penis of a polar bear in town? Is very good for sex" What sounds like a confused dream, I wanted to top itself is not quite believe it. But as a tourist guide to Greenland, you will get used to almost everything.

The tender for the job, I received during an Erasmus stay in Iceland. With an anthropology lecturer from Reykjavik, I had on me, just two hours' flight away from Iceland in Kulusuk a unique culture.
The Greenland Eizigartigkeit this vast island owes mainly to their location and extreme weather. Until 120 years ago lived here only the indigenous people, the Inuit, on the part of over three kilometers thick ice-covered island. This feature makes Greenland for researchers and tourists alike appealing.
Most tourists, however, companies here only day trips from Reykjavik, or use the village as a transit station, so that everyday life in Kulusuk even today is very original. How then is the hunting of dog sledding and small boats from the main work of the roughly 300 residents.
Only a few decades, the stone and Torfhütten by timber imported from Denmark replaced. The toilet is still a bucket, a tap of the canister. The main tools are knives and guns - and they are in the only local business from the age of twelve years to buy.
Chinese have a lot of fun, the perfect equipment Deutsche
On a typical day as a guide began the day tour of the tourists by ten clock morning in Reykjavik. Barely two hours later I received my Icelandic colleagues, and I accompanied the tourists. About an hour walk from the airport into the village, with several stops. Often enough it came before that, especially elderly tourists not managed migration, and with the quad, a four-terrain vehicle that had to be driven.
THE HISTORY GRÖNLANDSWo is it? APMit an area of about two million square kilometers, is the Danish autonomous territory of Greenland, the largest island in the world. Still living on the island, over 80 percent of a partially over 3000 meters thick ice shields covered only about 55,000 people. In all of Greenland are no two towns by road. Even as inhospitable Greenland, as a popular joke, only the east coast of Greenland. The island is situated in the northern Atlantic and the Polarmeer.Wer's has found? Initial 1884 reached the Dane Gustav Holm well as the first European to the east coast of Greenland. Cold polar flows, and promote the Packeisbildung much drift bring with them, cut the East Coast by then from the rest of the world. The approximately 400 Inuit, the leg in the area around the current Tasilaq was lived at that time compared with Steinzeitmenschen.Wer "civilized" Greenland? Changed over the years in the seclusion of the little natives: The Danish king declared!
the area a protected area, In the only one allowed to enter with permission. A real time jump saw the small, on an offshore island municipality Kulusuk, as Americans there at the beginning of the cold war, including a radar station built airport. Kulusuk Today is the only airport in the region the "gateway to East Greenland." And who lives there? Of the approximately 55,000 inhabitants, only about 3,000 Inuit. From the original inhabitants of the island is now a minority become Greenland. From the rest of the world lived with the Inuit language, and their lives change over the centuries by an insurmountable ice shielded.
The mentality differences between various nationalities to observe, was for me the most exciting in the work. Many Chinese had some never before seen snow. Although they are mostly happy eerie about the first contact, the march on a small snow field but could become a problem. The Germans on the other hand, were mostly very well prepared, both in the background as well as the equipment.
With the greatest scourge of Greenland summer, however, the mosquitoes, in the countless Schmelzwassertümpeln hatch, hardly anyone had expected. I'd make a fortune, I would have mosquito nets at the airport sold. Often I should also attached mosquito net posing for photos.
Drum dance at the tourist tour
The village is the highlight of any tour of the traditional drum dance. Two siblings, descendants of the last shaman, perform the ancient tradition and teach it to the school.
Initially, the beating of driftwood and built Eisbär stomach drum three functions: It was magic rituals, one purpose of the ban imposed by the missionaries would have almost disappeared. Secondly, earlier dispute with a dance duel settled when the drum was beaten. Recalled today the drum, the courtrooms in Greenland depends. The third function is today: The Strokes entertain the audience, while old traditional stories told.
After the screening of a traditional kayak from seal fur could ale, which have a strong stomach, in the basement of the Community House seal skins, Walfischtran or sometimes even a watch Eisbärenfell drying.
If nothing more, we need to put the dogs ran
Back to the airport was mostly between gigantic icebergs along small canals in the ice. They see the little nutshells indigenous hunters are often so fragile like toy boats. Only when the water is no longer precedes the rise Greenlanders on their dog sled around.

In the early afternoon, when the plane with the tourists back in the direction of Iceland started, in the village began the actual work. The hunters went out, and for me it went out expeditions to look after, so the participants with a crossing to organize or a gun for hire. Mostly, it was hard physical loading of expedition equipment. During 24 hours of daylight remained thereafter still time for my own trips.
Physically and mentally, it was extremely strenuous months, including widespread alcoholism was sometimes hard to endure. But the experience so far in such a strange life dive, made everything more competitive. I often had the feeling of the native Inuit more about nature to learn, as during my entire course.

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